Hot Springs and Hikes

A mother/daughter adventure in beautiful Burgdorf, Idaho

Screen Shot 2018-10-04 at 4.50.26 PMNext time you find yourself near McCall, Idaho, skip though town and head north on Warren Wagon Road. You’ll pass the Pueblo Lindo Mexican restaurant (worth a stop if you’re hungry), skirt Payette Lake and Upper Payette Lake, and 28 very slow miles later, you’ll find yourself in Burgdorf – the little town that time forgot.

I was enchanted with Burgdorf the moment I saw the sign – Burgdorf – spelled out in greying aspen trunks and branches, nailed carefully to the side of a weather-beaten barn. This looks like my kind of place, I thought.

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pickupThe ambiance of Burgdorf, from the rusted red pickup abandoned in the field to the dilapidated dance hall with the drooping front porch, to the smattering of old cabins and outhouses, felt so authentic. Even the weary hot springs pool looked inviting.

There are 16 no-frills cabins in Burgdorf, and most are tiny. All have wood burning stoves and outhouses. None have running water or kitchens.

20180809_192321_HDRWe stayed in a cabin called DeRail. It had a double bed, a wood burning stove, a wooden table and chairs and a counter. The front porch, up a few creaky steps, had two chairs and a wobbly table. We had a private outhouse out back, a few steps up the hill. It was perfect.

The hot springs pool was rough around the edges like the rest of the place, which gave it character. The best thing it had going for it was that it was open all night long to overnight guests. A midnight soak was definitely in order.

With its rustic appeal, Burgdorf was charming, and the surrounding area was fascinating, too. In our typical style, we packed as much as we could into our two-day stay.

quartzWe hiked from our cozy cabin to the Crystal Mountain trailhead, then climbed the quartz-topped mountain which is said to have the largest deposit of quartz crystals in the state. I’m not sure if that’s actually true, however, we had a great hike and left with some beautiful chunks of quartz.

We also hiked to Loon Lake, a 10-mile adventure along the Secesh River. We were hoping to make it to the crash site of the “Dragon Bomber,” a B-23 that went down in the hills above Loon Lake on January 29, 1943 with eight men aboard, but we ended up turning back at the lake. No worries. We’re glad to have an excuse to return. Side note: All the men survived. Read more.

20180810_070228_HDRWe made it to nearby Warren, too, the “secret” town we’d heard about located a dozen or so miles up the dirt road past Burgdorf. Folks from McCall who want to get away from the crowds go to Warren, we were told. There were no crowds there, just an old graveyard up on the hill and a restaurant called the Baum Shelter, where we bought a few orders of garlic fries and took them back to the staff at Burgdorf.

To cool off after our dusty adventure, we grabbed our books and returned to the Secesh River, where we plopped down on rocks and splashed our feet in the icy water.

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While we had a lot of fun in Burgdorf, my favorite memory is of our middle-of-the-night soak. We set the alarm for 1:30 AM and vowed that when it buzzed, we would force ourselves to get out of bed and walk down to the pool. The alarm sounded and with little debate, we were up, out the door, and into the silent night. Well, almost silent night. As we made our way down the hill, we passed a guest walking up the hill back to his cabin. It was creepy running into someone in the quiet darkness. It was also creepy sitting in the pool and stargazing. It was so eerily quiet, in fact, that we didn’t last too long out there in the darkness!

We squeezed a lot of good times into our short stay in Burgdorf, and we also made some great memories. Who knew that in the tiny town of Burgdorf, in the middle of Nowhere, Idaho, we could have so much fun.

 

Hut-to-Hut Hiking in Vanoise National Park

champagny-en-vanoise
Our sleepy village, Champagny-en-Vanoise. A perfect home base for our hut trip.

It didn’t take long to settle into Champagny-en-Vanoise, a tiny town far from popular French destinations like Paris and Nice. Our home base was a cozy condo, high in the Alps, with close proximity to the local coffee shop, pizzeria, bar, market, bakery. And, it had stunning 360 degree views from the deck.

As much as we loved our condo and our location, we were ready to fill our packs and head out on a three-day hike through the Alps.

We thought we had the logistics completely dialed in. Since the trailhead was several miles from town, we planned to hike down to the coffee shop (always a great place to start an adventure)) and ask Clementine, our favorite barista, to call the village’s only taxi for a ride to the trailhead. That was Plan A, and it failed instantly. The taxi was busy until noon; too late to start our hike.

We quickly switched to Plan B, which was simple, just less efficient. We’d get the car and drive to the trailhead, then taxi back to our car in a few days. Simple. Dan walked to the house to get the car, and in the fifteen minutes it took him to return, an unexpected Plan C was well underway.

Clementine had asked Louie, one of the summer regulars, to drive us to the trailhead, and he accepted with a giant grin. Since the entire conversation transpired in French, we were unaware of the arrangement until Clementine proudly announced she’d found us a ride.

So, Dan took the car back to the house, we piled into Louie’s ride, and set off for the Le Laisonnay trailhead, where Louie pointed us in the right direction and waved goodbye.

 

Day One

Le Lasonnay to Refuge Col du Palet

Screen Shot 2018-08-28 at 4.23.05 PMWe started our adventure with an easy 7-mile hike to Refuge Col du Palet, which, at 2,587 meters, is one of the highest huts in the Vanoise National Park. The trail wandered past Refuge Les Gliere, then climbed up and over the Col du Palet through lush fields bursting with wildflowers and stunning peak views.

The rustic hut was perfectly placed in a meadow overlooking a lake and shadowed by towering peaks. We shared our dinner table with Vic And Sandra, a couple from Britain on a 12-day trek along the Grande Randonnee 5 route  (GR5 route), and our bedroom with a dozen strangers (which was fortunate since the room was set up to accommodate 32 hikers, 16 in lower beds and 16 in the bunks above). We were happy we were assigned lower beds, and even happier that not one of our roommates snored.

Sunset in Vanoise
Sunset from the Refuge Col du Palet

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Day 2

Col du Palet to Refuge de La Leisse

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The day’s 10-mile trek started with an uninspiring walk to and through Tignes, a new ski village comprised of high rise condos, and morphed into a spectacular stroll in the shadow of Mont Blanc. We zipped over rolling hills and through meadows of lush wildflowers, and then we hit the snow zone.

Col de la Leisse, at just over 9,000 feet, was the day’s highpoint, and the remnants of the snowy winter were apparent as we gained altitude. We slipped and slid as we crossed snowfields, but the slower pace gave us a chance to admire the glaciers hanging onto the peaks surrounding the valley.

We made it to the Refuge de la Leisse in early afternoon with plenty of time to shower and drink a beer before dinner. Vic and Sandra, our friends from the Refuge Col Du Palet beat us there, so we swapped stories before dinner. And we also met twin sisters Sanna and Lina from Sweden who were training for upcoming high-altitude running races.

We shared a room with six strangers, and sadly, it was a much noisier night, with a symphony of snores and coughs which kept us up into the wee hours.

hiking Vanoise
Yes! That’s Mont Blanc.

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Day 3

Refuge de la Leisse to Pralognon

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Our final hike was a picture-perfect, 12-mile trek along clean dirt trails to Pralognan, a village down valley from Champagny-en-Vanoise, where we hoped to catch the 3:00 bus for the short ride back to our village.

We took advantage of the scenic, sun-drenched day to enjoy changing views along raging rivers, under glaciers, and through meadows. The miles flew by, especially once we lost altitude and left the snow behind.

Like clockwork, we made it to Pralognon with just enough time to catch the bus, and all too soon, we were back in Champagny en Vanoise.

The next morning started, as usual, at our favorite coffee shop. And guess who beat us there for his morning coffee? Louie! Our favorite Frenchman welcomed us back with broad grins and big hugs.

hiking Vanoise
So sad to leave the beautiful Vanoise behind.

 

Adventures Along the Garden Route

An 8-Day Adventure Along South Africa’s Eastern Cape

map1The Garden Route, which follows the Eastern Cape, is a popular drive along South Africa’s scenic coastline. Some drive it as a loop, but we decided on a one-way adventure – from Stellenbosch to Port Elizabeth – which gave us lots of time to explore the rugged topography and native wildlife before flying back to Cape Town from Port Elizabeth.

We had a week to drive the 800 kilometers, so most days included a short drive and lots of time to sightsee. We were glad to be driving in short spurts because it was stressful. Did you know they drive on the left side of the road in South Africa?

Ever wonder what it’s like to drive on the wrong side of the road?  This is what I thought about it.

Day 1: Stellenbosch to Hermanus

Here we go!

We picked up the car and left Stellenbosch in the rain. Our destination was Hermanus, an easy two-hour drive east which included stops at the Mooiberge Farmstall and a visit to the Stony Point Penguin Colony at Betty’s Bay. Farmstalls are popular in South Africa, and Mooiberge is a big one. We wandered through the store and admired the local products, from wine to dried fruit to canned goods. We didn’t get out of there without buying a few treats; a bag of dried guava and another of dried pears. That should take care of our sugar cravings for the week.

The Stony Point Penguin Colony was the highlight of our day.  I’d never seen penguins in their natural habitat before, so I was thoroughly entertained by their  tuxedoed struts and ocean antics.

Our destination was Hermanus, and in our typical style, we waited until we got to town to find lodging. We chose a self-catering two-room apartment on the water which gave us plenty of room to spread out and have a little privacy.

We still had an hour of daylight to kill, so we despite the threatening clouds, we ventured out for a quick hike on the cliff walk. We didn’t make it too far before the clouds opened up. No regrets. We needed to stretch our legs, and after a peek at the trail, we were eager to embark on a drier hike in the morning!

Day 2:  Hermanus to Wilderness

 

Yesterday’s Cliff Walk was just a tease. We’d been stoked to hike the rugged trail along the coast, so when we awoke to clear skies, we were ready to go.

The hike didn’t disappoint. Crashing waves, diving birds, and… armed security guards posted every 250 meters or so along the path. What? Well this is South Africa. Security guards are a good thing. South Africa may be beautiful, but it is not the safest country. If you’re planning a visit,  watch this video to learn about safety precautions.

birdyOn our way out of town, we stopped at a Saturday market to admire local handicrafts and sample the  fare. We loved the traditional South African treat, melktert, which reminded us of rice pudding. Here’s a recipe if you’d like to try making it yourself.

I couldn’t resist buying this carved bird. We met the artist, Boniface Chikwenhere. If you like the bird, visit his website and check out his other work.

The drive to Wilderness took four hours, the  longest of the trip. With short days of winter, we knew we needed to get on the road by noon to finish the drive before nightfall. We found another two-bedroom apartment just out of town and made it there before dark. Barely. But we had a few minutes to admire the beautiful location in the lengthening shadows.  Our apartment opened up to a pool and a stunning view of the peaks across the valley.

For dinner, we headed to a local’s favorite, The Girl’s on the Square. We went a little crazy and tried the fried calamari, a pear and prawn salad, steamed mussels, and a fried fish dish. I’d go back in a minute. Everything was really tasty.

Day 3: Wilderness to Knysna

Since we didn’t have far to drive, we had plenty of time to explore the sights around Wilderness before heading east. We stopped at “The Big Tree” first. Apparently every town has a “big tree,” and each thinks their tree is the best tree. This particular tree was an Outeniqua Yellowwood; more than 800 years old and about 100 feet tall. It was cool, but not nearly as cool as baboons we passed while driving there.

map of africaOur next stop was the  “Map of Africa” scenic viewpoint. The view is into a valley where two rivers merge and surround a treed hillside that is actually the shape of Africa (if you use your imagination just a little). Looking the other direction from the viewpoint was a sandy beach that stretched east for 18 kilometers, Since we were ready for our daily hike, we headed to the beach to stretch our legs.

We enjoyed our beach walk, but it was pretty windy. When you watch this video, you may notice that I am standing still! The movement is the blowing sand.

 

We eventually made our way to Knysna and found an apartment a few miles out of town called The Woodlands. It was peaceful sanctuary located on the edge of an indigenous forest. The succulent garden out front was watered entirely by rainfall.

Day 4:  Knysna

We started the day with the Circle of Trees hike in the nearby Goldfield State Forest. The trail led us through an indigenous forest and dense jungle down through lush ferns growing along the river. We hiked by cool pools and waterfalls before climbing up and out.

Our host recommended a drive up to the Knysna Heads, a lookout point with sweeping views of the Indian Ocean to one side and the bay of Knysna to the other. Separating the two bodies of water is a narrow channel with sheer cliffs jutting above each side.

The ocean was furious. Towering waves were breaking on the rocks below and white caps crashed on the horizon as far as we could see. The protected bay, however, was calm.

wineSouth Africa is known for it’s wine, and we were lucky to be in Knysna for a wine festival on nearby Thesen Island. For just 150 rands,  the equivalent of about $10 US dollars, we sampled lots of  local wines. We made a few purchases, too. Unfortunately, the wineries can’t ship to the United States, so we couldn’t buy more than we could carry.

The 2017 Jakkalsvlei Coffee Pinotage was my favorite! I like to travel light, so I just bought one bottle.

 

Day 5: Knysna to Storms River (Tsitsikamma)

We awoke to brilliant blue skies. Time to move on to our next stop,  Tsitsikamma National Park.

Though eager to get to Tsitsikamma, we couldn’t resist a stop at the Robberg Nature Reserve, located on a peninsula that juts out into the Indian Ocean.  We chose to hike the Point Circuit, a strenuous 9.2 mile loop, and since it was off season, we had the trail to ourselves.

We followed wooden boardwalks, scampered over gigantic lichen-covered boulders, and hiked along sandy trails that climbed up and then down to the sea and then up again.

We smelled the seals before we saw them, a huge colony that alternately body surfed in the frothing waves and sunned themselves on the rocks below.

By the time we finished our hike, we were racing the clock to get to Storm’s Bay, a tiny village on the outskirts of Tsitsikamma, before sundown.

We chose an apartment that had no heat, just a small wood-burning stove in the living room and a tiny pile of wood meant to last the night. Temperatures were heading down to the low 40s, so after a quick dinner, there was really nowhere warm to hang out. I opted to read in bed. I jumped in, pulled up the covers and got a great surprise – an electric blanket over the mattress to cozy things up!

Day 6: Storms River (Tsitsikamma)

Though the calendar read July 4, it was business as usual in South Africa. We woke up in our cold cabin. Though we were reluctant to leave our toasty beds, we were on a mission to explore Tsitsikamma National Park, so we made a quick exit and headed to the park.

We had time for two fabulous hikes in Tsitsikamma.

tsi2.jpgOn the first, we hiked to a suspension bridge which crosses Storms River as it spills into the Indian Ocean. The views from the swinging structure were fabulous; up a narrow canyon to the west and over the Indian Ocean to the east. Once across, we scampered over rocks and up ladders to a lookout point high above.

From our lofty perch, we watched schools of dolphins body surfing in the waves along the shoreline. Further out, we saw whales spouting and breaching. It was hard to leave our lookout, but we needed ample time to hike to the waterfall before the park closed.

tsi7The description said the seven kilometer hike to the waterfall would take three hours. Seven kilometers in three hours? We thought for sure we could cover the distance much quicker. The hike, however was proof that distance isn’t always a good indication of how long a hike might take.

In this case, the hike took the full three hours, partly because we stopped to take a lot of pictures and partly because it was a hands and feet scramble through rock fields over house-sized boulders, across sketchy bridges and up rickety ladders. We loved it, of course!

pawprintsWe were racing the clock to complete the out and back hike before the park closed because we didn’t want to pay a fine if we were late. The waterfall was not too impressive since it hadn’t rained for a while, but the waves crashing over the rocks along the shoreline more than made up for it. They were terrifying – pounding, deafening and so close.

We followed the yellow paw prints painted on the rocks and hightailed it back to the trailhead.

 

Day 7: Storm’s River to Schotia Game Reserve

We capped off our Garden Route tour with a short safari at Schotia Game Reserve, a privately-owned 4,000-acre park just north of Port Elizabeth. After all, doesn’t everyone who goes to Africa go on a safari? The package we’d booked included four game drives, tea, dinner, breakfast and lunch, and one night lodging.

I wasn’t sure if I would like a safari; I am one to sit still for very long, so I  was surprised at how much I enjoyed watching the animals.  Donovan, our guide, told us we’d be looking for four of the  “big five:” elephants, rhinoceros, lions and buffalo.

We piled into the open Toyota Land Cruiser and set off on a search that didn’t disappoint. We saw elephants, antelope, warthogs, buffalo, giraffe, wildabeast, lion, buffalo, jackal, zebra, hippos, rhinos and more! Check out the slide show!

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We got chased by a rhino, watched a lioness hunt her pray, intimidated a hippo, and drove into a herd of Cape Buffalo. All the while, we learned about poaching issues, animal behavior, and how the reserve manages overpopulation of various species. Yup. They open the gate between the north and south sides of the reserve and herd the excess antelope into the north side where they become lion food.

We spent the night in a rustic cabin at the reserve, a little unnerved by the fact that we were the only guests staying overnight on the entire reserve. Even Donovan, our guide, left after showing us how to fire up the coal heater and turn on the propane burner for our morning tea.  No internet. No phones. No people. Just a million stars shining down on us as we settled in for the night.

Day 8: Addo Elephant National Park to Cape Town

elephantWe finished our safari at the nearby Addo Elephant National Park.  Zane, our guide, gave us a great tour and a phenomenal education. while we embraced this last chance to admire the impressive beasts at the park.

Our Garden Route tour gave us just a taste of the beauty and wildlife in South Africa. Though we were sad to say goodbye to the Garden Route, we were very happy to ditch the rental car and head to Cape Town for our next adventure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Birthdays and Backpacks

When you set off on an adventure, you never really know what lies ahead.

bdayshotsWe throw down our packs, plop down on a bench, and admire the craggy Julian Alps framing the Planina Pre Jezeru hut, our home for the night. It’s a surprisingly warm September afternoon in Slovenia’s Triglav National Park, so we’re in no hurry to head inside to register with Olga, the hut keeper. She’s a very efficient lady with cropped blonde hair, a faded green t-shirt, jeans, and no time for chitchat. My first impression of Olga is that of a drill sergeant rather than a favorite aunt; proof positive that first impressions aren’t definitive.

We’ve gotten a late start, so before shouldering our packs, I call the hut to make sure there’s room for us. Reassured there are plenty of beds and assuming there is phone reception, we hit the trail. Our plan is to make it to the hut, then call our daughter to wish her a happy birthday. The nine-hour time difference between Slovenia and Idaho means that when we’re downing our first beer at happy hour, she’s rolling out of bed. College students need their sleep, so we can’t call too early. We knock out the short, steep trek in a few hours and arrive at the hut with time to kill. When I finally pull out my phone to take care of the birthday business, I discover there’s no phone service. No Internet. No luck.

Normally, lack of connectivity would be delightful, but not today. On this day, in fact, it’s a big problem. Our daughter will think we’ve forgotten her 20th birthday. And worse yet, since she doesn’t know we’re hiking in Slovenia, she’ll worry about us if she tries to call and can’t connect.

I venture into the hut to ask Olga if there’s a phone I can use. “There’s no phone here,” she barks. Unconsciously, I cradle my face in my hands and sigh, “it’s my daughter’s birthday,” more to myself than anyone else.

“Just a minute,” Olga says gruffly, and turns to check in a group of hikers. I leave to use the toilet, and when I return, there’s a phone miraculously sitting on the table!

Elated, I dial Anna’s number. Her answering machine picks up, but I am thrilled to send birthday wishes and let her know we’re off the grid for a few days. Olga seems happy, too! When I hang up, she instructs her husband, Ivo, to pour two shots of Smreknokov, the local liquor of Slovenia, so we can celebrate with a birthday toast.

Minutes later, Olga returns clutching the phone. “Call your daughter,” she commands. “I just got a call from the US, and I think it was her. The caller hung up when I answered {in Slovenian}.” I call Anna back, and this time she answers. With giant grins plastered on our faces, we wish her a happy day and start to feel like good parents again. Ivo pours more shots and the celebration continues.

Olga warms up to us as the evening continues. When she finally leads us upstairs to show us our beds, she quietly asks, “Do you want your own room?” “Yes!” we emphatically reply. And just like that, we’re in a room with a dozen bunks…and we’ve got it all to ourselves! Her kindness continues through the night, with friendly banter, tasty streudel, and shots of Smreknokov. Ivo pulls his accordion off a shelf and serenades us.

When it’s time to settle the bill the next morning, we notice there are neither shots nor international phone calls on our bill. When I ask Olga if she’s forgotten to charge us, she just smiles and quietly says, “I’ve got a daughter, too.”

As we say our goodbyes, Olga presents me with a pressed Edelweiss flower to take with me on our journey. It’s the perfect souvenir of a perfect stay. I carefully tuck the flower between the pages of my book, and we set off to our next hut in high spirits.