It didn’t take long to settle into Champagny-en-Vanoise, a tiny town far from popular French destinations like Paris and Nice. Our home base was a cozy condo, high in the Alps, with close proximity to the local coffee shop, pizzeria, bar, market, bakery. And, it had stunning 360 degree views from the deck.

As much as we loved our condo and our location, we were ready to fill our packs and head out on a three-day hike through the Alps.

We thought we had the logistics completely dialed in. Since the trailhead was several miles from town, we planned to hike down to the coffee shop (always a great place to start an adventure)) and ask Clementine, our favorite barista, to call the village’s only taxi for a ride to the trailhead. That was Plan A, and it failed instantly. The taxi was busy until noon; too late to start our hike.

We quickly switched to Plan B, which was simple, just less efficient. We’d get the car and drive to the trailhead, then taxi back to our car in a few days. Simple. Dan walked to the house to get the car, and in the fifteen minutes it took him to return, an unexpected Plan C was well underway.

Clementine had asked Louie, one of the summer regulars, to drive us to the trailhead, and he accepted with a giant grin. Since the entire conversation transpired in French, we were unaware of the arrangement until Clementine proudly announced she’d found us a ride.

So, Dan took the car back to the house, we piled into Louie’s ride, and set off for the Le Laisonnay trailhead, where Louie pointed us in the right direction and waved goodbye.

Day One

Le Lasonnay to Refuge Col du Palet

Screen Shot 2018-08-28 at 4.23.05 PM We started our adventure with an easy 7-mile hike to Refuge Col du Palet, which, at 2,587 meters, is one of the highest huts in the Vanoise National Park. The trail wandered past Refuge Les Gliere, then climbed up and over the Col du Palet through lush fields bursting with wildflowers and stunning peak views.

The rustic hut was perfectly placed in a meadow overlooking a lake and shadowed by towering peaks. We shared our dinner table with Vic And Sandra, a couple from Britain on a 12-day trek along the Grande Randonnee 5 route (GR5 route), and our bedroom with a dozen strangers (which was fortunate since the room was set up to accommodate 32 hikers, 16 in lower beds and 16 in the bunks above). We were happy we were assigned lower beds, and even happier that not one of our roommates snored.

Sunset in Vanoise — Sunset from the Refuge Col du Palet

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Day 2

Col du Palet to Refuge de La Leisse

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The day’s 10-mile trek started with an uninspiring walk to and through Tignes, a new ski village comprised of high rise condos, and morphed into a spectacular stroll in the shadow of Mont Blanc. We zipped over rolling hills and through meadows of lush wildflowers, and then we hit the snow zone.

Col de la Leisse, at just over 9,000 feet, was the day’s highpoint, and the remnants of the snowy winter were apparent as we gained altitude. We slipped and slid as we crossed snowfields, but the slower pace gave us a chance to admire the glaciers hanging onto the peaks surrounding the valley.

We made it to the Refuge de la Leisse in early afternoon with plenty of time to shower and drink a beer before dinner. Vic and Sandra, our friends from the Refuge Col Du Palet beat us there, so we swapped stories before dinner. And we also met twin sisters Sanna and Lina from Sweden who were training for upcoming high-altitude running races.

We shared a room with six strangers, and sadly, it was a much noisier night, with a symphony of snores and coughs which kept us up into the wee hours.

hiking Vanoise — Yes! That’s Mont Blanc.

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Day 3

Refuge de la Leisse to Pralognon

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Our final hike was a picture-perfect, 12-mile trek along clean dirt trails to Pralognan, a village down valley from Champagny-en-Vanoise, where we hoped to catch the 3:00 bus for the short ride back to our village.

We took advantage of the scenic, sun-drenched day to enjoy changing views along raging rivers, under glaciers, and through meadows. The miles flew by, especially once we lost altitude and left the snow behind.

Like clockwork, we made it to Pralognon with just enough time to catch the bus, and all too soon, we were back in Champagny en Vanoise.

The next morning started, as usual, at our favorite coffee shop. And guess who beat us there for his morning coffee? Louie! Our favorite Frenchman welcomed us back with broad grins and big hugs.

When you set off on an adventure, you never really know what lies ahead.

bdayshots We throw down our packs, plop down on a bench, and admire the craggy Julian Alps framing the Planina Pre Jezeru hut, our home for the night. It’s a surprisingly warm September afternoon in Slovenia’s Triglav National Park, so we’re in no hurry to head inside to register with Olga, the hut keeper. She’s a very efficient lady with cropped blonde hair, a faded green t-shirt, jeans, and no time for chitchat. My first impression of Olga is that of a drill sergeant rather than a favorite aunt; proof positive that first impressions aren’t definitive.

We’ve gotten a late start, so before shouldering our packs, I call the hut to make sure there’s room for us. Reassured there are plenty of beds and assuming there is phone reception, we hit the trail. Our plan is to make it to the hut, then call our daughter to wish her a happy birthday. The nine-hour time difference between Slovenia and Idaho means that when we’re downing our first beer at happy hour, she’s rolling out of bed. College students need their sleep, so we can’t call too early. We knock out the short, steep trek in a few hours and arrive at the hut with time to kill. When I finally pull out my phone to take care of the birthday business, I discover there’s no phone service. No Internet. No luck.

Normally, lack of connectivity would be delightful, but not today. On this day, in fact, it’s a big problem. Our daughter will think we’ve forgotten her 20th birthday. And worse yet, since she doesn’t know we’re hiking in Slovenia, she’ll worry about us if she tries to call and can’t connect.

I venture into the hut to ask Olga if there’s a phone I can use. “There’s no phone here,” she barks. Unconsciously, I cradle my face in my hands and sigh, “it’s my daughter’s birthday,” more to myself than anyone else.

“Just a minute,” Olga says gruffly, and turns to check in a group of hikers. I leave to use the toilet, and when I return, there’s a phone miraculously sitting on the table!

Elated, I dial Anna’s number. Her answering machine picks up, but I am thrilled to send birthday wishes and let her know we’re off the grid for a few days. Olga seems happy, too! When I hang up, she instructs her husband, Ivo, to pour two shots of Smreknokov, the local liquor of Slovenia, so we can celebrate with a birthday toast.

Minutes later, Olga returns clutching the phone. “Call your daughter,” she commands. “I just got a call from the US, and I think it was her. The caller hung up when I answered {in Slovenian}.” I call Anna back, and this time she answers. With giant grins plastered on our faces, we wish her a happy day and start to feel like good parents again. Ivo pours more shots and the celebration continues.

Olga warms up to us as the evening continues. When she finally leads us upstairs to show us our beds, she quietly asks, “Do you want your own room?” “Yes!” we emphatically reply. And just like that, we’re in a room with a dozen bunks…and we’ve got it all to ourselves! Her kindness continues through the night, with friendly banter, tasty streudel, and shots of Smreknokov. Ivo pulls his accordion off a shelf and serenades us.

When it’s time to settle the bill the next morning, we notice there are neither shots nor international phone calls on our bill. When I ask Olga if she’s forgotten to charge us, she just smiles and quietly says, “I’ve got a daughter, too.”

As we say our goodbyes, Olga presents me with a pressed Edelweiss flower to take with me on our journey. It’s the perfect souvenir of a perfect stay. I carefully tuck the flower between the pages of my book, and we set off to our next hut in high spirits.